For those who don't follow fashion like a religious duty, you may not understand the relevance of the runway and why next seasons trends are shown two seasons ahead, but I'm throwing it back to a show from February that explored what we would be wearing come winter later this year and hope you'll be surprised at how relevant and relatable it is - especially because the show was such a marvel. Perched somewhere between fantastic and a farce, the vast majority of regular beings will have looked upon Moschino’s AW/2020 runway and laughed at the thought of spending a season dressed as Marie Antoinette. Ready to wear? Yes of course... -250 years ago and only if it comes with a “Wide Load” sticker of warning. I admit that I see the comedy of witnessing such an outfit as you shop in your local market or eye up the blue croissant rolls towering over the opposite desk. But I contest your dismay and want to show you how some key pieces for your Autumn/Winter wardrobe can and should be taken directly from the Moschino runway, with your back-to-work wardrobe benefiting also. No, you don't need to dye your hair. And yes, you have permission to eat cake.
STAPLE 1: The Trench Coat.
Its practical, versatile and reliable in any given weather. Every season, the trench coat acts as a blank canvas for designers and consumers to push boundaries with architecture and silhouette, colours and fabrics, add-ons and accessories... but it stays the most wearable and indispensable coat in your closet. The Moschino trench came in three variations: classic colours, heavy leathers, and with a pannier skirt structure that was a feature throughout the show. There is always, always room for a new trench coat but don’t commit yourself to one straight away: test as many different colours, fabrics and cuts as you can - even if you are investing in a classic beige or camel for now. You’ll be surprised at the differences and variations across each store and style, and how different they appear depending on skin-tone, hair colours and light variations. It might take a while, but when you find the one (or the ten) that suit you, you will know.
STAPLE 2: The Power Suit.
And it's as serious as you need it to be. Be it satin or studded, cropped at the waist, skirted, shirted or wrapped in a huge pink bow. Each suit that walked was an ode to the power of the woman and proof that even the most pompous and effeminate fashions can be brought to the conference room. Furniture-style florals were coupled with daringly short hems, sleeves were ruched and ruffled but the satin's and silks were toughened with button-studs and leather… The tailoring was impeccable: sharp shoulders, tucked collars and even a cravat – a symbol of a gentleman’s elegance – topping a two-piece. It was a buffet for suit inspiration and one that you can visit again and again without judgement.
STAPLE 3: Denim. The lesson? Doubling denim is not always enough.
Denim on denim and clad with applique and embroidery is probably not your go-to for Autumn-Winter. God forbid most of you who will associate it with the gypsy prints or floral patterns that arrive in the Summer months. But look to Moschino for a lesson and triple threat of inspiration: 1. The cuts are super slim but layered in a way that becomes provocative thanks to the peep-holes of skin between each piece. The golden embroidery is far from artsy so don't be tempted to get crafty. Here it's elaborate, it's eloquent, it's art. Finally, the denim is purposeful. Its thicker and heavier as the season requires and no layer is off-limits - underwear and footwear included.
STAPLE 4: The Leather Jacket.
A Moschino trait and one of the biggest fabric trends for the foreseeable, never mind the past season. Like the doubling of denim, more is more. Whilst a lot of fashion houses have offered leather in more pared back, relaxed and clean-cut silhouettes, Moschino remained dedicated to the biker-like jackets and silver studded accessories that we have all invested in at some point. So yes, your leather accessories from yesteryear can still be worn today.
STAPLE 5: Colour.
Sherbet shades are not just for Summer. Although the colours are light, fabrics are heavier and are layered and embellished to give the thickness required for wearing during the winter months. A huge way to cause a stir but gain fashion kudos would be pairing these blanched satins with layers of leather or thick knits in shades of navy and grey. On top of this, I do declare, Pink is powerful. There was no shortage from start to finish and with each look came a new seriousness the power and influence of Candyfloss pink - be it your trench coat, your power suit, your ribbons or your purse.
STAPLE 6: A jacket to thrill.
Blazers were huge in Summer, coats are a given in Winter, and tailored outwear essential for wardrobes - always. An Autumn/Winter show would be abominable if it didn't contain some form of outerwear for us to indulge in when the time is right. And Moschino did it right. Some form of tailored jacket was featured on most of the models in the show, but of course Moschino offered more than just your standard suit. Each piece was an ode to a craft: be it print, embroidery, silverwear, embellishment or lace. Colours were bold and fabrics were diverse so you really do have the ability to run free with your choice. As long as the shape is sharp, the bottom half is almost (*almost*) irrelevant, so investing in such a piece is especially valuable if your usual uniform is leggings and a tee. I won't be selling my soul to a carpet print tux but I am so on board with the coat tail cut becoming a classic.
STAPLE 7: Comfort. Yes, some comfort is allowed!
You can now sigh with relief as Irina Shayk appears in a black zip-up and others walk with grey hoods perched atop their coiffeur. But note that comfort does not equate to slack – the hair remains primped; the make-up is perfected; and strong silhouettes juxtapose the softer edges of cotton apparel. The looks are sharpened with leather and a mass of chains and hanging pearls, giving a great lesson in mix-and-match style and proving that casual wear does have a place in the polished world. Just make sure your hair remains high.
She may not have survived the Revolution, but a few lessons in fashion may persevere.
AE x
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